Clare Saffitz Cinnamon Rolls NYTimes

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:15 buns

FOR THE DOUGH

• 1cup/240 grams whole milk
• ¼cup/34 grams plus 4 cups/540 grams all-purpose flour
• ¼cup/58 grams ice-cold water
• 3large eggs (150 grams), cold from the refrigerator
• 1teaspoon active dry yeast
• ¼cup/50 grams granulated sugar
• 1½teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ¾ teaspoons coarse kosher salt (such as Morton)
• 8tablespoons/116 grams unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, at cool room temperature, plus more for the bowl

FOR THE FILLING

• 4ounces/116 grams speculoos cookies, such as Lotus brand (about 15), lightly crushed
• ½cup/100 grams Demerara sugar
• 1tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 1teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or ½ teaspoon Morton kosher salt
• 12tablespoons/170 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature

FOR THE ICING AND ASSEMBLY

• Room-temperature unsalted butter, for the pan
• All-purpose flour, for rolling
• 4ounces/113 grams cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1cup/110 grams confectioners’ sugar
• 1tablespoon vanilla extract
• 6tablespoons/85 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature

• PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

     Scald the milk: Warm the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling once or twice, until it’s steaming, small bubbles appear along the sides, a skin has formed on the surface and you see light rippling, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low and continue to heat the milk for 1 minute, making sure not to let it boil. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Measure ⅓ cup/80 grams of the hot milk and transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.

  2. Step 2

     Make the tangzhong: To the saucepan with the remaining milk, add ¼ cup/34 grams of the flour, and whisk vigorously to combine and eliminate any lumps. Return the saucepan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly and making sure to scrape along the sides, until the mixture has thickened and looks like smooth mashed potatoes, about 1 minute. Remove the saucepan from the heat and scrape the mixture into the stand mixer bowl.

  3. Step 3

     Mix the dough: Add the cold water to the stand mixer bowl and whisk to combine, then add the eggs and whisk to break up the whites and yolks. Touch the sides of the bowl — if it’s still warm, pop the bowl in the refrigerator and chill until the mixture is room temperature. Add the yeast and remaining 4 cups/540 grams flour to the bowl and turn the mixer on low speed. Mix until you have a coarsely textured dough, about 5 minutes, then turn off the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 5 minutes. Add the sugar and salt, and mix on medium-low speed until incorporated and the dough is very smooth and elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, another 15 to 20 minutes. (This dough requires a long, slow mix so be patient with this step.)

  4. Step 4

     Add the butter: Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the butter one piece at a time, waiting for the dough to absorb each piece before adding more, until you have a soft, supple dough, 10 to 15 minutes.

  5. Step 5

     Let the dough rise and chill overnight: Lightly butter the inside of a clean, large bowl. Scrape the dough out of the mixer bowl onto the work surface and work it into a ball. Place the dough inside the buttered bowl, seam side down. Cover and let sit at room temperature until it has expanded in size by about 50 percent, 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes. Transfer the bowl to the refrigerator and chill for at least 8 hours and up to 24 (the dough will continue to rise in the refrigerator).

  6. Step 6

     The next day, make the cinnamon filling: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the cookies, Demerara sugar, cinnamon and salt, and pulse until you have very fine, dry crumbs, about 1 minute. (Make sure not to process so much that the mixture starts to look wet.) Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl and add the butter, then use a flexible spatula to work the crumbs into the butter until you have a smooth paste. Set the filling aside.

  7. Step 7

     Prepare the pan: Lightly coat the bottom and sides of a metal 9-by-13-inch pan with room temperature butter, then line the bottom and two longer sides with a piece of parchment paper. Smooth the parchment to eliminate air bubbles, then butter the parchment. Set the pan aside. Lightly butter one side of a piece of aluminum foil large enough to cover the pan and set aside.

  8. Step 8

     Roll out the dough: Lightly flour the work surface, then remove the dough from the refrigerator and scrape it out onto the surface. Flatten the dough with the heel of your hand, pressing out some of the built-up gas and working it into a rectangular shape, then use a rolling pin to roll it out, dusting over top and underneath with more flour as needed to prevent sticking, until you have a ⅜-inch-thick rectangle measuring about 20 inches long and 12 inches wide.

  9. Step 9

     Fill and roll: Dollop the filling across the surface of the dough, then use a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread it in an even layer all the way to the edge closest to you, leaving a clean ½-inch border on the two shorter sides and the longer side that’s farthest away from you. Try to work reasonably quickly so the dough doesn’t soften too much at room temperature. Starting at the long end closest to you, roll the dough into a snug spiral and rest it on the seam. Starting in the middle, squeeze along the length of the dough to even out the thickness and lengthen it so it’s about 22 inches long. If the dough feels soft and slack (which may happen if your kitchen is warm), slide it onto a piece of parchment paper and then slide the parchment onto a large baking sheet. Refrigerate it until the dough is firm, 10 to 15 minutes, then return to the work surface.

  10. Step 10

      Cut the buns, fill the pan and proof: Slide a piece of unflavored dental floss, fishing line or baker’s twine underneath the dough on either end and cut through the spiral, removing a 1-inch-long piece of dough from the ends. Use the floss to cut the dough crosswise into thirds, then cut each third into 5 equal pieces. Arrange the pieces cut sides up in the prepared pan in a 3-by-5 grid. Cover the pan with the foil, buttered side down, and let the buns sit at room temperature until they’re not quite doubled in size, 30 to 60 minutes (peek beneath the foil to check).

  11. Step 11

      Meanwhile, heat the oven: Arrange an oven rack in the center position and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  12. Step 12

      Bake and cool: Make sure the pan is tightly covered with the foil, then transfer to the oven and bake, covered, for 15 minutes. Pull out the pan from the oven slightly and use tongs to remove the foil, then continue to bake until the buns are golden brown all over, another 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Use a paring knife to cut down between the pan and the buns along the shorter sides to loosen them, then use the parchment paper to lift the buns out of the pan and set them on the wire rack to cool completely.

  13. Step 13

      Make the icing and ice the buns: In a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla, and work with a flexible spatula until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the butter and mix with the spatula, working it against the side of the bowl, until you have a smooth mixture, then switch to a whisk and beat until the icing is light and thick. Dollop the icing over top of the cooled buns and spread with the back of a spoon to cover the surfaces.

  14. Step 14

      DO AHEAD: The buns will keep, covered at room temperature, for several days but will begin to stale after a day or two. Revive stale buns in the microwave.

Thieboudienne

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:6 to 8 servings

• 1¾ to 2 pounds firm white fish, such as red snapper or striped bass, bone-in, skin-on, cut crosswise into 1½- to 1¾-inch steaks
• Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton) and ground black pepper
• 1medium red onion, peeled and quartered
• 1(1-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed
• 6garlic cloves
• 2scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped
• 8 to 10fresh parsley sprigs, roughly chopped
• 5 to 6fresh dill sprigs, roughly chopped
• 1whole lemon
• 8 to 9tablespoons peanut oil or neutral oil, such as grapeseed
• 3large ripe, firm tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1large red bell pepper, roughly chopped
• ¼cup tomato paste
• ½teaspoon ground cumin
• ¼teaspoon ground coriander
• 1tablespoon dawadawa powder (see Tip)
• 3fresh or dried bay leaves
• 3cups vegetable stock
• 2 to 3medium carrots, tops trimmed and scrubbed, 1 medium sweet potato, ¼ piece pumpkin or butternut squash, or 1 medium cassava, cut into 2-inch pieces
• ¼piece small green cabbage, outer leaves removed, sliced along the length into 1-inch thick slices
• 4ounces greenhouse okra or green beans, tops trimmed
• 3cups broken rice, rinsed and drained
• 1 to 2red or green Scotch bonnet chiles

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   Pat the fish steaks dry with a paper towel. Use a sharp knife to cut ½-inch deep slits into the skin side of the fish. Season each piece lightly with salt and pepper.

2. Step 2

   Make the marinade: Add ¼ of the onion, the ginger and 3 garlic cloves to a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Add the scallions, parsley and dill, and pulse until mixture is a coarse paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl and zest the lemon directly into it. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. (Alternatively, finely chop the onion, ginger, garlic, scallions, parsley and dill into a coarse paste by hand. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper.)

3. Step 3

   Rub the marinade all over and into the fish, including into any cavities. Set aside while you prepare the remaining ingredients, or, if cooking later, refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Step 4

   Rinse out the food processor and add ½ the onion, remaining 3 garlic cloves, tomatoes and red bell pepper. Pulse until chopped into a coarse purée.

5. Step 5

   In a medium nonstick skillet, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, wipe off any excess marinade, place the fish pieces in the skillet and sear each side until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drizzle in another tablespoon of oil if working in batches or as needed.

6. Step 6

   Use a knife to thinly slice the remaining ¼ piece of onion. In a large, lidded Dutch oven or a large, wide skillet, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently until just softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, scraping down the sides and bottom as it cooks to prevent it from sticking, until deepened in color, 4 minutes. Add the spices, dawadawa powder and bay leaves, and stir.

7. Step 7

   Add the red pepper purée and stir to combine with the tomato paste. Bring up to a simmer, cover and continue to cook on medium-low, stirring occasionally until the sauce thickens slightly and the oil begins to rise to the surface, 10 to 12 minutes.

8. Step 8

   Stir in the vegetable stock, increase heat to medium-high, cover and bring up to high to a rolling boil. Season with salt to taste.

9. Step 9

   Cook the vegetables until tender enough to just pierce with a fork: Drop in the hardiest vegetables with the longest cooking times in the boiling liquid first. Carrots, squash, potatoes and cassava will take about 12 to 15 minutes. Tender vegetables with shorter cooking times can go in later. Cabbage will take about 10 minutes, and okra and green beans will take 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a baking sheet or large plate as they cook.

10. Step 10

    Once all of the vegetables have been cooked and moved to a plate, gently drop the fish into the broth. Lower the heat to medium-low and allow the fish to simmer until just barely cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the plate or the baking sheet. Add the rice and whole chiles, stir to coat the grains and cover the skillet with the lid. Cook until the rice is just tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 to 17 minutes. The rice may scorch on the bottom of the pan, and that’s OK. Return the fish and vegetables to the skillet, arrange directly over the top of the rice and pour in any liquid on the baking sheet or plate. Cover and allow to continue cooking until the rice is softened, vegetables are warmed and fish is cooked through, about 4 to 6 minutes.

11. Step 11

    To serve, remove the whole chiles or leave in depending on taste. Move the pot to the table and spoon out portions of the rice, fish and vegetables onto individual plates.

TIP

• Dawadawa, also known as iru, is a fermented locust bean product frequently used in West African cooking to add deep, robust flavor to soups and stews. It can be found as a ground powder or whole beans in the spice aisles of any African grocer. Possible alternatives are fish sauce or fermented black beans.

Sunset Pavlova With Sweet Vinegar and Rosemary

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:8 to 10 servings

FOR THE MERINGUE

• 7ounces/200 grams egg whites (from 6 to 7 large eggs), at room temperature
• 1¾cups plus 2 tablespoons/370 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 2teaspoons cornstarch
• 2teaspoons apple cider vinegar

FOR THE ROSEMARY ORANGE SYRUP

• Scant ½ cup/100 milliliters orange juice
• 3tablespoons/40 milliliters apple cider vinegar
• 4fresh rosemary sprigs, plus 1 teaspoon chopped leaves, for serving
• ¼cup/50 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 2teaspoons lemon juice

FOR THE CARDAMOM CREAM

• 1¼cups/300 milliliters heavy whipping cream
• Scant ½ cup/100 grams mascarpone
• 2tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon/30 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 8cardamom pods, shells discarded and seeds finely crushed or ground

FOR THE FRUIT TOPPING

• 2large ripe but firm nectarines
• 3ripe but firm yellow or red plums
• 6kumquats (or 1 orange, peeled and sliced into rounds, or additional muscat grapes)
• 1cup/100 grams seedless muscat grapes
• 2passion fruits, halved and insides scraped, or ¼ cup passion fruit purée

• PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

     Heat the oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

  2. Step 2

     Prepare the meringue: Add the egg whites to the base of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place and beat on medium-high speed until firm peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. With the machine running, add the superfine sugar, a spoonful at a time, until the meringue is stiff and glossy, about 4 minutes more.

  3. Step 3

     Use a spatula to gently fold the cornstarch and vinegar into the meringue until evenly mixed through. Transfer the meringue to your prepared baking sheet and use a spatula to spread it into an oblong shape that’s roughly 14 inches long and 10 inches wide. Use your spatula to create spiky peaks across the surface of the meringue for a more rustic look.

  4. Step 4

     Place the meringue in the oven, then immediately turn the temperature down to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for 1 hour, until dry on the outside but chewy through the center. Leave to cool at room temperature, about 30 minutes. Don’t worry if it cracks in places.

  5. Step 5

     Meanwhile, make the syrup: Add the orange juice, vinegar, rosemary sprigs and superfine sugar to a small saucepan and place it over a medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, then cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until reduced by about half. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and set aside to cool completely. It’ll thicken to a maple syrup consistency as it cools.

  6. Step 6

     Make the cream: Add all the ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Beat on medium-high speed until soft-medium peaks form, 1½ to 2 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to use.

  7. Step 7

     Prepare the fruit topping: Use a mandoline to finely shave one side of the nectarine to get very thin rounds until you hit the pit, then shave the opposite side. Chop off the narrower ends and save these to snack on. Repeat with the plums. Set both aside on a large plate, separately. Use a small serrated knife to finely slice the grapes and the kumquats into thin rounds of around the same thickness. Set the sliced kumquats on the same plate, discarding the pits.

  8. Step 8

     To assemble, use the parchment paper to help you transfer the meringue to a large serving platter or board. (Alternatively, you can serve it right from the sheet pan.) Top the cooled meringue with the cream by dolloping and spreading it across the meringue using the back of a spoon, leaving a 1-inch gap from the edges. Artfully top with the nectarines, plums, grapes and kumquats. Dot with the passion fruit. Remove the rosemary sprigs from the syrup and place these on top of the fruit then pour the syrup all over the fruit. Lastly, sprinkle with the extra chopped rosemary. Serve right away, or within the hour, as the meringue will soften as it sits.

Strawberry pudding cake

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 servings

• 4tablespoons/57 grams unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the skillet
• 1lemon
• 12ounces fresh strawberries (preferably small to medium), hulled and cut into halves or quarters
• ¾cup/151 grams granulated sugar
• Fine sea salt
• ¾cup/96 grams all-purpose flour
• 2teaspoons baking powder
• ⅓cup/80 milliliters whole milk
• 1¼cups/300 milliliters boiling water
• Confectioners’ sugar or sweetened whipped cream, for serving

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Butter a 9- to 10-inch skillet, about 2 inches deep (preferably cast iron).

2. Step 2

   From the lemon, finely grate 2 teaspoons zest into the melted butter and set aside. Squeeze 1 tablespoon lemon juice into a medium bowl and add strawberries, ¼ cup granulated sugar and ¼ teaspoon salt; toss until the sugar has started to become syrupy, coating the berries. (Using a hand to toss here helps the sugar melt faster.) Set aside.

3. Step 3

   In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, remaining ½ cup granulated sugar and ½ teaspoon salt. Mix the milk into the melted butter. Slowly pour the milk mixture into the dry ingredients while stirring with a spatula or spoon until just combined. The batter will be thick but spreadable.

4. Step 4

   Transfer batter to the buttered skillet and spread in an even layer. Arrange the strawberries in the batter, cut sides down, pressing them slightly. Pour their syrup over the top, then carefully pour the boiling water over the top.

5. Step 5

   Bake on the middle rack of the oven until the cake is golden brown and a warm, pudding-like sauce has formed below the strawberries, 25 to 27 minutes.

6. Step 6

   Dust with confectioners’ sugar or serve with sweetened whipped cream, if desired. Serve warm. As the pudding cake sits, the pudding will eventually soak into the cake, so is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. (To reheat, heat at 300 degrees, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes.)

TIP

• With a convection fan-equipped oven, this cake can also achieve a crisp and browned topping in a round or square glass baking dish at 400 degrees. Baking time will most likely be a little less than in Step 4, so look for the visual cues for doneness.

Japanese Potato Salad With Mentaiko

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:4 to 6 servings

• 1pound russet potatoes (about 2 whole large potatoes), peeled and cut into large chunks
• Salt
• 2eggs
• 1tablespoon rice vinegar, plus more to taste
• 2teaspoons sugar
• 1small Japanese or Persian cucumber, or ½ an English cucumber (about 4 ounces), quartered lengthwise, seeds removed and discarded, and thinly sliced
• 1small carrot (2 to 3 ounces), quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced
• ½cup thawed frozen corn kernels or briefly boiled fresh corn kernels (optional)
• ¼cup chopped radish (about 2 radishes; optional)
• 2scallions, thinly sliced
• 5tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise (see Tip), plus more to taste
• 1whole sac mentaiko or tarako (about 2 ounces)
• 1teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes with cold water by at least 1 inch. Add a few big pinches of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Gently lower the eggs into the pot. Cover, reduce to a bare simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender and show no resistance when pierced with a knife or cake tester, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and spread in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Immediately sprinkle with vinegar and sugar. Set aside until completely cool, at least 15 minutes. Transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water and peel when completely cool.

2. Step 2

   Meanwhile, toss the cucumber with a big pinch of salt in the bottom of a large bowl and set aside until the potatoes are cool.

3. Step 3

   When the potatoes are cool, add them to the bowl with the cucumber and lightly mash with the back of a fork until some bite-size chunks still remain.

4. Step 4

   Add carrot, corn, radish, scallion, mayonnaise, mentaiko, lemon zest and juice. Squeeze the hard-boiled eggs through your clean fingers to break them up, or chop them with a knife and add them to the salad. Stir together and season with pepper, more salt, sugar, vinegar, lemon juice or mayonnaise, or a combination, to taste.

TIP

• Kewpie is a Japanese brand of mayonnaise with a thicker texture, and tangier, more umami flavor, though any mayonnaise you prefer will work in this recipe

Fish tacos al pastor

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:8 to 10 servings

FOR THE FISH

• 8 to 10skin-on white fish fillets, such as branzino, snapper or sea bass, or 4 to 6 swordfish steaks (2 ½ to 3 pounds total)
• Kosher salt
• 1pineapple, trimmed, peeled and cored (or 2 pounds store-bought cut pineapple)
• 4plum tomatoes
• 1small white onion, cut into large chunks
• 4garlic cloves
• 5guajillo chiles (1 ounce); see Tip
• 5ancho chiles (3 ounces); see Tip
• Grapeseed or other neutral oil
• 2cinnamon sticks, preferably Mexican
• 5whole cloves
• 1teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1teaspoon black peppercorns

FOR THE PINEAPPLE PICO DE GALLO

• 1cup finely diced red onion
• ½cup finely chopped cilantro
• ½cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1serrano chile, finely chopped
• Kosher salt

FOR SERVING

• Whole cilantro leaves and thinly sliced serrano chile, for garnish
• About 40 corn tortillas, warmed, for serving
• Lime wedges, for serving

• PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

     Prepare the fish: Season the fish on all sides with salt and refrigerate until ready to cook. Prepare an outdoor grill for direct high-heat cooking or heat an indoor grill or grill pan over medium-high.

  2. Step 2

     Make the pineapple adobo: Cut one-third of the trimmed pineapple into large chunks (about 2 ½ cups) and cut the remaining into ¼-inch-thick slabs. Place the pineapple slabs and chunks, tomatoes, onion, garlic and dried chiles on a large sheet pan.

  3. Step 3

     Grease the grill: Use tongs to grip a wadded paper towel dipped in oil and rub the grates. Using a grill basket if you have one, grill the pineapple, tomatoes, onion and garlic (cover if using a gas grill) and turn occasionally until charred in spots and tender. The garlic will take about 5 minutes; the pineapple slabs and onion 8 to 12 minutes; the pineapple chunks 12 to 15 minutes; and the tomatoes 20 to 25 minutes. Toast the dried chiles directly on the grill, turning once, until fragrant, just a few seconds to a minute. Turn off the heat.

  4. Step 4

     Wearing gloves, remove the stems and seeds from the dried chiles. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil, add the dried chiles and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes, then transfer to a plate. Save the cooking water.

  5. Step 5

     Meanwhile, toast the cinnamon sticks, cloves, cumin seeds and peppercorns in a skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, about a minute.

  6. Step 6

     Add the grilled vegetables, pineapple chunks (save the slabs), rehydrated chiles, toasted spices and 2 tablespoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt and blend until very smooth, adding a splash or two of the chile water if needed to blend. Pass the adobo through a fine-mesh sieve. Taste and add salt as needed.

  7. Step 7

     In a large, deep pot or Dutch oven, heat ½ cup grapeseed oil over medium-high until wisps of smoke start to appear. Carefully add the adobo to the hot oil (watch out for splattering) and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and emulsified, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

  8. Step 8

     Make the pineapple pico de gallo: Finely dice the grilled pineapple slabs, then add to a bowl along with the red onion, cilantro, olive oil and serrano chile. Season to taste with salt and stir to combine.

  9. Step 9

     Cook the fish: Heat the grill or grill pan to medium-high. Grease the grates again. Generously brush both sides of the fish with the adobo. Grill the fish, skin side down, until the skin is slightly charred and comes off the grates easily, 4 to 7 minutes on the first side and 30 seconds on the second side. Grill swordfish for 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a large platter.

  10. Step 10

      To serve, top each fillet with some of the pineapple pico de gallo and garnish with the cilantro leaves and serrano chile slices. Serve with tortillas and lime wedges.

  TIP

  • Mild in heat with rich, Christmasy fruitiness, dried guajillo and ancho chiles can be found at many supermarkets, Mexican grocery stores and online. The bright red guajillos are non-negotiable, Mr. Herrera says, but if you really need to, in place of the dark, raisiny anchos, you can substitute the same weight of pasilla chiles or 2 tablespoons chipotle en adobo.