Cast Iron Orange Cake

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:1 10-inch cake

FOR THE CAKE

• 2cups/400 grams granulated sugar
• 2navel oranges
• 2teaspoons vanilla paste or vanilla extract
• ¼teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly toasted and coarsely ground (optional)
• ½teaspoon plus a pinch kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal
• 1cup/226 grams salted butter, at room temperature
• 2medium or large egg yolks, at room temperature
• 2cups/255 grams all-purpose flour
• ¼cup/50 grams semolina flour (or another ¼ cup/32 grams all-purpose flour)
• 2teaspoons baking powder
• ½cup/60 grams chopped toasted walnuts
• Olive oil, for the pan

FOR THE BUTTERMILK CHANTILLY CREAM (OPTIONAL)

• ¾cup/180 milliliters heavy cream
• ½tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
• Pinch of kosher salt
• ¼cup/60 milliliters whole buttermilk

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   Make the cake: Place a 10-inch cast iron pan on the middle rack of the oven and heat the oven to 350 degrees while you prepare the batter.

2. Step 2

   Add sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer and finely zest one orange into it. Set the bowl aside and then trim a bit of the stem end off both oranges and discard. Cut oranges into 8 pieces and puree in a food processor or blender, scraping the bowl as needed. You need 1½ cups puree; set aside.

3. Step 3

   To the stand mixer bowl, add vanilla, fennel seeds (if using) and a pinch of salt. Rub ingredients together vigorously with your hands and fingers.

4. Step 4

   When sugar is fragrant, add butter and set the mixer to medium-high speed to cream until fluffy, about 5 minutes. Scrape down bowl and paddle, making sure you aren’t leaving any butter unattended.

5. Step 5

   Add egg yolks and beat on medium-high until well incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes more, remembering to scrape bowl and paddle as needed.

6. Step 6

   While wet ingredients are working in the mixer, prepare dry ingredients by whisking together flour, semolina, baking powder and salt.

7. Step 7

   Scrape butter mixture down from bowl and paddle. Give it a good stir to make sure the batter is well mixed. Return to the stand mixer, add the reserved 1½ cups orange puree and slowly incorporate on medium-low speed, then turn to medium-high to blend well.

8. Step 8

   Starting on low speed, add dry ingredients, then increase speed to medium-high and eventually to high, scraping bowl and paddle all the livelong day, until batter is very well mixed.

9. Step 9

   Remove the bowl from the mixer and use your spatula to scrape and stir in the nuts, making sure they’re well combined.

10. Step 10

    Remove the hot skillet from the oven, brush with a generous amount of olive oil and spread batter in the hot pan. It should sizzle and will get a nice, toasty caramelized bottom during baking.

11. Step 11

    Bake for 35 to 45 minutes. The cake should be set in the middle and golden brown on top. You can use a cake tester if you have one; it should come out clean. This cake can be eaten on its own warm out of the oven after sitting for a little over 30 minutes.

12. Step 12

    If you’d like, make the cream: Using a stand mixer with the whisk attachment or a hand mixer, beat heavy cream in a large bowl, gradually adding sugar along with a pinch of salt until firm peaks form, 3 to 6 minutes. Add buttermilk and beat until billowy with soft peaks, about 1 minute. Serve immediately with slices of cooled cake, or chill in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours. If the cream separates a bit after sitting, gently beat the cream with a whisk (nothing electric here) just to recombine.

Charleston Red Rice

By Millie Peartree

Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Jerrie-Joy Redman-Lloyd.

Total Time

About 1¼ hours

Rating

4(1,123)

Notes

Read 137 community notes

A Lowcountry favorite that likely descended from West African jollof rice, this classic tomato and rice dish is also sometimes called Carolina red rice – or simply red rice. It often contains sausage, but this version, inspired by how the chef Millie Peartree’s mother, Millie Bell, used to make it, relies on bacon for its depth. (Still, if you’d like to add sausage, just let it sear with the vegetables in Step 3.) To start, the “holy trinity” (bell pepper, onion and celery) is cooked in the bacon fat, infusing the cooking liquid. Then, the rice is baked to ensure it’s perfectly cooked. Serve this alongside baked chicken or ham, green beans or collard greens, for a full, satisfying meal.

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INGREDIENTS

Yield:8 servings

• Nonstick cooking spray
• 6bacon slices
• 1medium Vidalia or other sweet, Spanish or yellow onion, chopped
• 2celery ribs, chopped
• 1large green bell pepper, chopped
• 1teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 2garlic cloves, minced
• 2cups long-grain or Carolina gold rice, rinsed until water runs clear
• 1(14-ounce) can tomato purée
• 1½cups chicken stock or water, plus more as needed
• 1tablespoon hot sauce
• 1teaspoon Cajun seasoning
• 1teaspoon granulated sugar
• ½teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch of ground cayenne
• Parsley leaves, for garnish

Ingredient Substitution Guide

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   Heat oven to 350 degrees and coat a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with cooking spray.

2. Step 2

   In a large (12-inch) heavy skillet over medium heat, fry the bacon until crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Remove the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving behind drippings. Crumble the bacon and set aside.

3. Step 3

   In the same skillet, add the chopped onion, celery, bell pepper and 1 teaspoon salt, and sauté until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, another 30 seconds.

4. Step 4

   To the skillet, add the rinsed rice. Stir and toast the rice for 30 seconds. Add the crumbled bacon, tomato purée, stock, hot sauce, Cajun seasoning, sugar, pepper and cayenne.

5. Step 5

   Bring the rice and vegetables to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 5 minutes. Taste and add salt, if needed.

6. Step 6

   Carefully transfer ingredients to the greased baking dish. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil, and bake until the rice is tender, about 40 to 50 minutes. Check the rice after about 30 minutes to make sure all the liquid is absorbed, and the rice is tender. (If it's too dry or not cooked all the way through, add a few tablespoons of water or stock at a time, if necessary, and cook a little longer.) Fluff with a fork before serving and garnish with parsley leaves.

Clare Saffitz Cinnamon Rolls NYTimes

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:15 buns

FOR THE DOUGH

• 1cup/240 grams whole milk
• ¼cup/34 grams plus 4 cups/540 grams all-purpose flour
• ¼cup/58 grams ice-cold water
• 3large eggs (150 grams), cold from the refrigerator
• 1teaspoon active dry yeast
• ¼cup/50 grams granulated sugar
• 1½teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or ¾ teaspoons coarse kosher salt (such as Morton)
• 8tablespoons/116 grams unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, at cool room temperature, plus more for the bowl

FOR THE FILLING

• 4ounces/116 grams speculoos cookies, such as Lotus brand (about 15), lightly crushed
• ½cup/100 grams Demerara sugar
• 1tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 1teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or ½ teaspoon Morton kosher salt
• 12tablespoons/170 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature

FOR THE ICING AND ASSEMBLY

• Room-temperature unsalted butter, for the pan
• All-purpose flour, for rolling
• 4ounces/113 grams cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1cup/110 grams confectioners’ sugar
• 1tablespoon vanilla extract
• 6tablespoons/85 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature

• PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

     Scald the milk: Warm the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling once or twice, until it’s steaming, small bubbles appear along the sides, a skin has formed on the surface and you see light rippling, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low and continue to heat the milk for 1 minute, making sure not to let it boil. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Measure ⅓ cup/80 grams of the hot milk and transfer it to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.

  2. Step 2

     Make the tangzhong: To the saucepan with the remaining milk, add ¼ cup/34 grams of the flour, and whisk vigorously to combine and eliminate any lumps. Return the saucepan to medium heat and cook, whisking constantly and making sure to scrape along the sides, until the mixture has thickened and looks like smooth mashed potatoes, about 1 minute. Remove the saucepan from the heat and scrape the mixture into the stand mixer bowl.

  3. Step 3

     Mix the dough: Add the cold water to the stand mixer bowl and whisk to combine, then add the eggs and whisk to break up the whites and yolks. Touch the sides of the bowl — if it’s still warm, pop the bowl in the refrigerator and chill until the mixture is room temperature. Add the yeast and remaining 4 cups/540 grams flour to the bowl and turn the mixer on low speed. Mix until you have a coarsely textured dough, about 5 minutes, then turn off the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 5 minutes. Add the sugar and salt, and mix on medium-low speed until incorporated and the dough is very smooth and elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, another 15 to 20 minutes. (This dough requires a long, slow mix so be patient with this step.)

  4. Step 4

     Add the butter: Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the butter one piece at a time, waiting for the dough to absorb each piece before adding more, until you have a soft, supple dough, 10 to 15 minutes.

  5. Step 5

     Let the dough rise and chill overnight: Lightly butter the inside of a clean, large bowl. Scrape the dough out of the mixer bowl onto the work surface and work it into a ball. Place the dough inside the buttered bowl, seam side down. Cover and let sit at room temperature until it has expanded in size by about 50 percent, 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes. Transfer the bowl to the refrigerator and chill for at least 8 hours and up to 24 (the dough will continue to rise in the refrigerator).

  6. Step 6

     The next day, make the cinnamon filling: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the cookies, Demerara sugar, cinnamon and salt, and pulse until you have very fine, dry crumbs, about 1 minute. (Make sure not to process so much that the mixture starts to look wet.) Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl and add the butter, then use a flexible spatula to work the crumbs into the butter until you have a smooth paste. Set the filling aside.

  7. Step 7

     Prepare the pan: Lightly coat the bottom and sides of a metal 9-by-13-inch pan with room temperature butter, then line the bottom and two longer sides with a piece of parchment paper. Smooth the parchment to eliminate air bubbles, then butter the parchment. Set the pan aside. Lightly butter one side of a piece of aluminum foil large enough to cover the pan and set aside.

  8. Step 8

     Roll out the dough: Lightly flour the work surface, then remove the dough from the refrigerator and scrape it out onto the surface. Flatten the dough with the heel of your hand, pressing out some of the built-up gas and working it into a rectangular shape, then use a rolling pin to roll it out, dusting over top and underneath with more flour as needed to prevent sticking, until you have a ⅜-inch-thick rectangle measuring about 20 inches long and 12 inches wide.

  9. Step 9

     Fill and roll: Dollop the filling across the surface of the dough, then use a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread it in an even layer all the way to the edge closest to you, leaving a clean ½-inch border on the two shorter sides and the longer side that’s farthest away from you. Try to work reasonably quickly so the dough doesn’t soften too much at room temperature. Starting at the long end closest to you, roll the dough into a snug spiral and rest it on the seam. Starting in the middle, squeeze along the length of the dough to even out the thickness and lengthen it so it’s about 22 inches long. If the dough feels soft and slack (which may happen if your kitchen is warm), slide it onto a piece of parchment paper and then slide the parchment onto a large baking sheet. Refrigerate it until the dough is firm, 10 to 15 minutes, then return to the work surface.

  10. Step 10

      Cut the buns, fill the pan and proof: Slide a piece of unflavored dental floss, fishing line or baker’s twine underneath the dough on either end and cut through the spiral, removing a 1-inch-long piece of dough from the ends. Use the floss to cut the dough crosswise into thirds, then cut each third into 5 equal pieces. Arrange the pieces cut sides up in the prepared pan in a 3-by-5 grid. Cover the pan with the foil, buttered side down, and let the buns sit at room temperature until they’re not quite doubled in size, 30 to 60 minutes (peek beneath the foil to check).

  11. Step 11

      Meanwhile, heat the oven: Arrange an oven rack in the center position and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

  12. Step 12

      Bake and cool: Make sure the pan is tightly covered with the foil, then transfer to the oven and bake, covered, for 15 minutes. Pull out the pan from the oven slightly and use tongs to remove the foil, then continue to bake until the buns are golden brown all over, another 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Use a paring knife to cut down between the pan and the buns along the shorter sides to loosen them, then use the parchment paper to lift the buns out of the pan and set them on the wire rack to cool completely.

  13. Step 13

      Make the icing and ice the buns: In a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla, and work with a flexible spatula until the mixture is completely smooth. Add the butter and mix with the spatula, working it against the side of the bowl, until you have a smooth mixture, then switch to a whisk and beat until the icing is light and thick. Dollop the icing over top of the cooled buns and spread with the back of a spoon to cover the surfaces.

  14. Step 14

      DO AHEAD: The buns will keep, covered at room temperature, for several days but will begin to stale after a day or two. Revive stale buns in the microwave.

Thieboudienne

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:6 to 8 servings

• 1¾ to 2 pounds firm white fish, such as red snapper or striped bass, bone-in, skin-on, cut crosswise into 1½- to 1¾-inch steaks
• Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton) and ground black pepper
• 1medium red onion, peeled and quartered
• 1(1-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed
• 6garlic cloves
• 2scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped
• 8 to 10fresh parsley sprigs, roughly chopped
• 5 to 6fresh dill sprigs, roughly chopped
• 1whole lemon
• 8 to 9tablespoons peanut oil or neutral oil, such as grapeseed
• 3large ripe, firm tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1large red bell pepper, roughly chopped
• ¼cup tomato paste
• ½teaspoon ground cumin
• ¼teaspoon ground coriander
• 1tablespoon dawadawa powder (see Tip)
• 3fresh or dried bay leaves
• 3cups vegetable stock
• 2 to 3medium carrots, tops trimmed and scrubbed, 1 medium sweet potato, ¼ piece pumpkin or butternut squash, or 1 medium cassava, cut into 2-inch pieces
• ¼piece small green cabbage, outer leaves removed, sliced along the length into 1-inch thick slices
• 4ounces greenhouse okra or green beans, tops trimmed
• 3cups broken rice, rinsed and drained
• 1 to 2red or green Scotch bonnet chiles

PREPARATION

1. Step 1

   Pat the fish steaks dry with a paper towel. Use a sharp knife to cut ½-inch deep slits into the skin side of the fish. Season each piece lightly with salt and pepper.

2. Step 2

   Make the marinade: Add ¼ of the onion, the ginger and 3 garlic cloves to a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Add the scallions, parsley and dill, and pulse until mixture is a coarse paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl and zest the lemon directly into it. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. (Alternatively, finely chop the onion, ginger, garlic, scallions, parsley and dill into a coarse paste by hand. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper.)

3. Step 3

   Rub the marinade all over and into the fish, including into any cavities. Set aside while you prepare the remaining ingredients, or, if cooking later, refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Step 4

   Rinse out the food processor and add ½ the onion, remaining 3 garlic cloves, tomatoes and red bell pepper. Pulse until chopped into a coarse purée.

5. Step 5

   In a medium nonstick skillet, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, wipe off any excess marinade, place the fish pieces in the skillet and sear each side until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drizzle in another tablespoon of oil if working in batches or as needed.

6. Step 6

   Use a knife to thinly slice the remaining ¼ piece of onion. In a large, lidded Dutch oven or a large, wide skillet, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently until just softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, scraping down the sides and bottom as it cooks to prevent it from sticking, until deepened in color, 4 minutes. Add the spices, dawadawa powder and bay leaves, and stir.

7. Step 7

   Add the red pepper purée and stir to combine with the tomato paste. Bring up to a simmer, cover and continue to cook on medium-low, stirring occasionally until the sauce thickens slightly and the oil begins to rise to the surface, 10 to 12 minutes.

8. Step 8

   Stir in the vegetable stock, increase heat to medium-high, cover and bring up to high to a rolling boil. Season with salt to taste.

9. Step 9

   Cook the vegetables until tender enough to just pierce with a fork: Drop in the hardiest vegetables with the longest cooking times in the boiling liquid first. Carrots, squash, potatoes and cassava will take about 12 to 15 minutes. Tender vegetables with shorter cooking times can go in later. Cabbage will take about 10 minutes, and okra and green beans will take 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a baking sheet or large plate as they cook.

10. Step 10

    Once all of the vegetables have been cooked and moved to a plate, gently drop the fish into the broth. Lower the heat to medium-low and allow the fish to simmer until just barely cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the plate or the baking sheet. Add the rice and whole chiles, stir to coat the grains and cover the skillet with the lid. Cook until the rice is just tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 to 17 minutes. The rice may scorch on the bottom of the pan, and that’s OK. Return the fish and vegetables to the skillet, arrange directly over the top of the rice and pour in any liquid on the baking sheet or plate. Cover and allow to continue cooking until the rice is softened, vegetables are warmed and fish is cooked through, about 4 to 6 minutes.

11. Step 11

    To serve, remove the whole chiles or leave in depending on taste. Move the pot to the table and spoon out portions of the rice, fish and vegetables onto individual plates.

TIP

• Dawadawa, also known as iru, is a fermented locust bean product frequently used in West African cooking to add deep, robust flavor to soups and stews. It can be found as a ground powder or whole beans in the spice aisles of any African grocer. Possible alternatives are fish sauce or fermented black beans.

Sunset Pavlova With Sweet Vinegar and Rosemary

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:8 to 10 servings

FOR THE MERINGUE

• 7ounces/200 grams egg whites (from 6 to 7 large eggs), at room temperature
• 1¾cups plus 2 tablespoons/370 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 2teaspoons cornstarch
• 2teaspoons apple cider vinegar

FOR THE ROSEMARY ORANGE SYRUP

• Scant ½ cup/100 milliliters orange juice
• 3tablespoons/40 milliliters apple cider vinegar
• 4fresh rosemary sprigs, plus 1 teaspoon chopped leaves, for serving
• ¼cup/50 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 2teaspoons lemon juice

FOR THE CARDAMOM CREAM

• 1¼cups/300 milliliters heavy whipping cream
• Scant ½ cup/100 grams mascarpone
• 2tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon/30 grams superfine (caster) sugar
• 8cardamom pods, shells discarded and seeds finely crushed or ground

FOR THE FRUIT TOPPING

• 2large ripe but firm nectarines
• 3ripe but firm yellow or red plums
• 6kumquats (or 1 orange, peeled and sliced into rounds, or additional muscat grapes)
• 1cup/100 grams seedless muscat grapes
• 2passion fruits, halved and insides scraped, or ¼ cup passion fruit purée

• PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

     Heat the oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

  2. Step 2

     Prepare the meringue: Add the egg whites to the base of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place and beat on medium-high speed until firm peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. With the machine running, add the superfine sugar, a spoonful at a time, until the meringue is stiff and glossy, about 4 minutes more.

  3. Step 3

     Use a spatula to gently fold the cornstarch and vinegar into the meringue until evenly mixed through. Transfer the meringue to your prepared baking sheet and use a spatula to spread it into an oblong shape that’s roughly 14 inches long and 10 inches wide. Use your spatula to create spiky peaks across the surface of the meringue for a more rustic look.

  4. Step 4

     Place the meringue in the oven, then immediately turn the temperature down to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for 1 hour, until dry on the outside but chewy through the center. Leave to cool at room temperature, about 30 minutes. Don’t worry if it cracks in places.

  5. Step 5

     Meanwhile, make the syrup: Add the orange juice, vinegar, rosemary sprigs and superfine sugar to a small saucepan and place it over a medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, then cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until reduced by about half. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and set aside to cool completely. It’ll thicken to a maple syrup consistency as it cools.

  6. Step 6

     Make the cream: Add all the ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Beat on medium-high speed until soft-medium peaks form, 1½ to 2 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to use.

  7. Step 7

     Prepare the fruit topping: Use a mandoline to finely shave one side of the nectarine to get very thin rounds until you hit the pit, then shave the opposite side. Chop off the narrower ends and save these to snack on. Repeat with the plums. Set both aside on a large plate, separately. Use a small serrated knife to finely slice the grapes and the kumquats into thin rounds of around the same thickness. Set the sliced kumquats on the same plate, discarding the pits.

  8. Step 8

     To assemble, use the parchment paper to help you transfer the meringue to a large serving platter or board. (Alternatively, you can serve it right from the sheet pan.) Top the cooled meringue with the cream by dolloping and spreading it across the meringue using the back of a spoon, leaving a 1-inch gap from the edges. Artfully top with the nectarines, plums, grapes and kumquats. Dot with the passion fruit. Remove the rosemary sprigs from the syrup and place these on top of the fruit then pour the syrup all over the fruit. Lastly, sprinkle with the extra chopped rosemary. Serve right away, or within the hour, as the meringue will soften as it sits.