Tuesday, September 19, 2023

Thieboudienne

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:6 to 8 servings
  • 1¾ to 2 pounds firm white fish, such as red snapper or striped bass, bone-in, skin-on, cut crosswise into 1½- to 1¾-inch steaks
  • Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton) and ground black pepper
  • 1medium red onion, peeled and quartered
  • 1(1-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed
  • 6garlic cloves
  • 2scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 8 to 10fresh parsley sprigs, roughly chopped
  • 5 to 6fresh dill sprigs, roughly chopped
  • 1whole lemon
  • 8 to 9tablespoons peanut oil or neutral oil, such as grapeseed
  • 3large ripe, firm tomatoes, roughly chopped
  • 1large red bell pepper, roughly chopped
  • ¼cup tomato paste
  • ½teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1tablespoon dawadawa powder (see Tip)
  • 3fresh or dried bay leaves
  • 3cups vegetable stock
  • 2 to 3medium carrots, tops trimmed and scrubbed, 1 medium sweet potato, ¼ piece pumpkin or butternut squash, or 1 medium cassava, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • ¼piece small green cabbage, outer leaves removed, sliced along the length into 1-inch thick slices
  • 4ounces greenhouse okra or green beans, tops trimmed
  • 3cups broken rice, rinsed and drained
  • 1 to 2red or green Scotch bonnet chiles

PREPARATION

  1. Step 1

    Pat the fish steaks dry with a paper towel. Use a sharp knife to cut ½-inch deep slits into the skin side of the fish. Season each piece lightly with salt and pepper.

  2. Step 2

    Make the marinade: Add ¼ of the onion, the ginger and 3 garlic cloves to a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Add the scallions, parsley and dill, and pulse until mixture is a coarse paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl and zest the lemon directly into it. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. (Alternatively, finely chop the onion, ginger, garlic, scallions, parsley and dill into a coarse paste by hand. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper.)

  3. Step 3

    Rub the marinade all over and into the fish, including into any cavities. Set aside while you prepare the remaining ingredients, or, if cooking later, refrigerate until ready to use.

  4. Step 4

    Rinse out the food processor and add ½ the onion, remaining 3 garlic cloves, tomatoes and red bell pepper. Pulse until chopped into a coarse purée.

  5. Step 5

    In a medium nonstick skillet, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, wipe off any excess marinade, place the fish pieces in the skillet and sear each side until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Drizzle in another tablespoon of oil if working in batches or as needed.

  6. Step 6

    Use a knife to thinly slice the remaining ¼ piece of onion. In a large, lidded Dutch oven or a large, wide skillet, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently until just softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, scraping down the sides and bottom as it cooks to prevent it from sticking, until deepened in color, 4 minutes. Add the spices, dawadawa powder and bay leaves, and stir.

  7. Step 7

    Add the red pepper purée and stir to combine with the tomato paste. Bring up to a simmer, cover and continue to cook on medium-low, stirring occasionally until the sauce thickens slightly and the oil begins to rise to the surface, 10 to 12 minutes.

  8. Step 8

    Stir in the vegetable stock, increase heat to medium-high, cover and bring up to high to a rolling boil. Season with salt to taste.

  9. Step 9

    Cook the vegetables until tender enough to just pierce with a fork: Drop in the hardiest vegetables with the longest cooking times in the boiling liquid first. Carrots, squash, potatoes and cassava will take about 12 to 15 minutes. Tender vegetables with shorter cooking times can go in later. Cabbage will take about 10 minutes, and okra and green beans will take 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a baking sheet or large plate as they cook.

  10. Step 10

    Once all of the vegetables have been cooked and moved to a plate, gently drop the fish into the broth. Lower the heat to medium-low and allow the fish to simmer until just barely cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the plate or the baking sheet. Add the rice and whole chiles, stir to coat the grains and cover the skillet with the lid. Cook until the rice is just tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 to 17 minutes. The rice may scorch on the bottom of the pan, and that’s OK. Return the fish and vegetables to the skillet, arrange directly over the top of the rice and pour in any liquid on the baking sheet or plate. Cover and allow to continue cooking until the rice is softened, vegetables are warmed and fish is cooked through, about 4 to 6 minutes.

  11. Step 11

    To serve, remove the whole chiles or leave in depending on taste. Move the pot to the table and spoon out portions of the rice, fish and vegetables onto individual plates.

TIP
  • Dawadawa, also known as iru, is a fermented locust bean product frequently used in West African cooking to add deep, robust flavor to soups and stews. It can be found as a ground powder or whole beans in the spice aisles of any African grocer. Possible alternatives are fish sauce or fermented black beans.

Saturday, September 2, 2023

Sunset Pavlova With Sweet Vinegar and Rosemary

 

INGREDIENTS

Yield:8 to 10 servings

    FOR THE MERINGUE

    • 7ounces/200 grams egg whites (from 6 to 7 large eggs), at room temperature
    • cups plus 2 tablespoons/370 grams superfine (caster) sugar
    • 2teaspoons cornstarch
    • 2teaspoons apple cider vinegar

    FOR THE ROSEMARY ORANGE SYRUP

    • Scant ½ cup/100 milliliters orange juice
    • 3tablespoons/40 milliliters apple cider vinegar
    • 4fresh rosemary sprigs, plus 1 teaspoon chopped leaves, for serving
    • ¼cup/50 grams superfine (caster) sugar
    • 2teaspoons lemon juice

    FOR THE CARDAMOM CREAM

    • cups/300 milliliters heavy whipping cream
    • Scant ½ cup/100 grams mascarpone
    • 2tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon/30 grams superfine (caster) sugar
    • 8cardamom pods, shells discarded and seeds finely crushed or ground

    FOR THE FRUIT TOPPING

    • 2large ripe but firm nectarines
    • 3ripe but firm yellow or red plums
    • 6kumquats (or 1 orange, peeled and sliced into rounds, or additional muscat grapes)
    • 1cup/100 grams seedless muscat grapes
    • 2passion fruits, halved and insides scraped, or ¼ cup passion fruit purée
  • PREPARATION

    1. Step 1

      Heat the oven to 350 degrees and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

    2. Step 2

      Prepare the meringue: Add the egg whites to the base of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place and beat on medium-high speed until firm peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. With the machine running, add the superfine sugar, a spoonful at a time, until the meringue is stiff and glossy, about 4 minutes more.

    3. Step 3

      Use a spatula to gently fold the cornstarch and vinegar into the meringue until evenly mixed through. Transfer the meringue to your prepared baking sheet and use a spatula to spread it into an oblong shape that’s roughly 14 inches long and 10 inches wide. Use your spatula to create spiky peaks across the surface of the meringue for a more rustic look.

    4. Step 4

      Place the meringue in the oven, then immediately turn the temperature down to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for 1 hour, until dry on the outside but chewy through the center. Leave to cool at room temperature, about 30 minutes. Don’t worry if it cracks in places.

    5. Step 5

      Meanwhile, make the syrup: Add the orange juice, vinegar, rosemary sprigs and superfine sugar to a small saucepan and place it over a medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, then cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until reduced by about half. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and set aside to cool completely. It’ll thicken to a maple syrup consistency as it cools.

    6. Step 6

      Make the cream: Add all the ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Beat on medium-high speed until soft-medium peaks form, 1½ to 2 minutes. Refrigerate until ready to use.

    7. Step 7

      Prepare the fruit topping: Use a mandoline to finely shave one side of the nectarine to get very thin rounds until you hit the pit, then shave the opposite side. Chop off the narrower ends and save these to snack on. Repeat with the plums. Set both aside on a large plate, separately. Use a small serrated knife to finely slice the grapes and the kumquats into thin rounds of around the same thickness. Set the sliced kumquats on the same plate, discarding the pits.

    8. Step 8

      To assemble, use the parchment paper to help you transfer the meringue to a large serving platter or board. (Alternatively, you can serve it right from the sheet pan.) Top the cooled meringue with the cream by dolloping and spreading it across the meringue using the back of a spoon, leaving a 1-inch gap from the edges. Artfully top with the nectarines, plums, grapes and kumquats. Dot with the passion fruit. Remove the rosemary sprigs from the syrup and place these on top of the fruit then pour the syrup all over the fruit. Lastly, sprinkle with the extra chopped rosemary. Serve right away, or within the hour, as the meringue will soften as it sits.